Electrician FAQs

We are based on the Wirral and work across the whole peninsula, from Birkenhead, Wallasey and Moreton to Hoylake, West Kirby, Heswall, Bebington, Bromborough and Neston, plus Ellesmere Port, Chester and the wider Merseyside area. Not sure if you are covered? Send us your postcode and we will tell you straight away.

Yes. Tell us what you need by phone, WhatsApp or the form on this site and we will give you a clear quote before any work starts. For bigger jobs such as a rewire we come and look first, so the price is based on your actual property, not a guess.

Yes. Blue light employees (police, fire, ambulance and other emergency services) and care sector workers get 10% off. Just mention it when you get in touch, and we may ask to see your work ID.

Yes. Our work comes with a satisfaction and performance guarantee. We use certified components, test everything before we leave, and if something is not right we come back and put it right.

Call, text or WhatsApp 07845 087406, email us, or send the details and a photo through the form on this site. Tell us roughly where you are and what you need, and we will come back to you with a price or a time to come and look.

Yes. For shops, offices and rental properties we plan the work so it causes as little disruption as possible, and can arrange testing and changeovers at quieter times.

Yes. We are NAPIT approved and registered under the Part P competent person scheme, so notifiable work is certified and registered with building control for you. Every job is tested and you get the right certificate for it: an Electrical Installation Certificate for new circuits and rewires, a Minor Works Certificate for smaller jobs, or an EICR for an inspection.

Yes. We are an Armed Forces Veteran-owned business, founded by an electrician with a Royal Navy background and over 22 years in the trade. The discipline, precision and pride in the job that the Navy instils are still how we work on every job, large or small.

Common signs are an old fuse box with rewirable fuses, rubber or fabric-covered cables, round-pin or cracked sockets, lights that flicker, frequent tripping, burning smells, or not enough sockets for modern life. Wiring more than about 25 to 30 years old is also worth checking. An EICR is the best first step: it tells you whether you need a full rewire, a part rewire or just a few repairs.

Often, yes. We plan the work room by room where we can, restore power at the end of each day wherever possible and keep dust and disruption down. For a full rewire of an occupied house we talk it through with you first, so you know exactly what each day looks like.

It depends on the size of the property, how easy the floors and walls are to get into and whether it is empty. We give you a timescale with the quote after we have seen the house, and stick to it.

Older fuse boxes often have no RCD protection, which is what cuts the power in a fraction of a second if someone touches something live. A modern consumer unit adds that protection, makes faults easier to find and is usually needed before adding new circuits such as an EV charger or an electric shower.

Usually most of a day, including testing every circuit. The power is off while we work, and we tell you before we start if the testing finds a fault on an existing circuit that needs putting right.

An Electrical Installation Condition Report is a thorough inspection and test of a property’s fixed wiring, sockets, lights and consumer unit. It records anything dangerous or not up to standard using codes (C1, C2, C3 and FI) and gives the installation an overall satisfactory or unsatisfactory result.

Landlords in England must have one at least every five years, or sooner if the last report says so, and give a copy to tenants. For homeowners, every ten years is the usual recommendation, and whenever you buy a property.

Any C1, C2 or FI items must be put right, normally within 28 days, and you need written confirmation that the work is done to give to your tenants. We quote for the remedial work with the report and can usually carry it out straight away.

Usually a faulty appliance, water getting in somewhere, a damaged cable or an overloaded circuit. Try unplugging everything on the circuit and resetting: if it holds, plug things back in one at a time to find the culprit. If it still trips, or you smell burning, leave it off and call us.

Off-street parking, a suitable supply and a consumer unit that can take the extra circuit. We check your supply, earthing and fuse board before recommending anything, so the charger is installed safely and you know upfront if anything needs upgrading first.

Water and electricity do not mix, so the wiring regulations divide a bathroom into zones around the bath and shower, with strict rules on what can go in each and how it must be protected. Bathroom electrical work is notifiable, which is why it needs a registered electrician.

Twice: once for first fix, after the old kitchen is out and before plastering, to run the cables for the cooker, hob, sockets and lighting, and again for second fix, once the units and worktops are in, to fit the sockets, switches and lights and test everything. We are happy to work alongside your kitchen fitter.

Yes, done properly. Outdoor cables need to be the right type, buried at the right depth or fixed safely, and protected by an RCD, and the building needs its own isolator. We plan the route with you and certify the circuit when it is done.